DARTH MOSEL – Imperial Concrete Strikes Back

Who is the evil Emperor and how can we stop him?

EPISODE 4

Like the other Rebels fighting the Empire I, Han Solo, also ask myself who the evil Emperor really is. The question is of vital importance, for it is he that directs Darth Vader, or Kurt Beck Minister President of Rheinland Pfalz, along with the deluded members of the Green Party who have fallen under the influnce of the Dark Side of the Force ? Is the emperor really a small wizened figure resembling a hooded monk or does he look completely different ? A rumour recently spread like wildfire through the German Wine Galaxy that he is actually what the Germans call a „Kaufmann“, which can be translated as merchant, salesman or dealer. When I heard this I couldn’t help thinking back to the peculiar events of the evening of Friday, May 8th 2001.

That night I parked the Millenium Falcon on Planet Ahr just south of Bonn in order to gather samples of a rare red wine called Frühburgunder. After a long day spent sampling this wondorous wine I stepped into the most popular bar in this spiral arm of the galaxy and found one of the Keepers of the Frühburgunder Garden, Werner Näkel of Weingut Meyer-Näkel, with three guess at a corner table. He asked me to join them, but two of his guests quickly left, then the remaining one introduced himself as King of the Union of Concrete Planets. A strange creature from an economic system unknown to me, he cooly added that his Union would be the suppliers of the concrete for Vader’s Death Star, that is the Mosel Bridge.

I am no Jedi Master like Obi-Wan Kenobi, so I have to summon all my self-control to tell him that I would not speak of this matter at all that evening, since otherwise there would be strife between us, which would be disrespectful to our exalted host. However, the Keeper of the Frühburgunder Garden immediately grasped his metaphorical laser sword and attacked the leader of the Union of Concrete Planets, telling him that you only know what it is really like to live in the shadow of a Death Star when one suddenly appears in your own solar system. With icy cool, the King of the Concrete Planets pretended that the Keeper of the Frühburgunder Garden had said nothing of any consequence, but maybe it is all of no consequence to him, because he lives and works far from where Vader is planning to build his Death Star.

Later the King of the Concrete Planets became bizarrely friendly towards me though I am one of the most militant Rebels. Did he imagine he could buy my aquiesence with flattery ? Or was he considering offering me something more substantial for defecting from the Rebels to the Empire ? Perhaps he only wanted me to help him clear his conscience by telling him that in spite of his concrete support for Vader he is still an honourable person ? Which it was I really couldn’t tell, so strange was the behaviour of the alien creature sitting opposite me. As strange as this close encounter of the third kind was, it didn’t convince me that the King of the Concrete Planets is the Emperor, even though he would obviously benefit enormously from the Death Star’s construction.

If he isn’t the evil genius behind the imperial masterplan though, then perhaps the emperor is a yet more powerful „Kaufmann“ hiding on a dark heavenly body close to the media planet SWR, in the Mainz area, home of the uncompromising Wookiees. After their excellent „Frontal“ report on the Mosel Bridge was broadcast, the investigating Wookiees abruptly and inexplicably ended their investigation of Vader’s Death Star plans. Only an enormous gravitational force at very close range could have caused the Wookiees search for truth to suddenly disappeared as if into a black hole.

When I heard the rumours about the Emperor I also thought of the mysterious Imperial Department of Sexual Transportation – a very strange form of motion which has nothing to do with conventional transportation – a department which legend says only a Jedi Master could penetrate from outside. I am not thinking of normal sexuality either, but the lust of steel for concrete and their union as reinforced concerete. It is these forces, steered by the Emperor, which threaten the famous vineyard sites of Zeltingen, Wehlen, Graach and Bernkastel and could eventually destroy all the famous vineyards in the German Wine Galaxy. Help us save them by mailing DEFEAT VADER AND THE EMPEROR to kontakt@pro-mosel.de

EPISODE 3

Only in Rheinland Pfalz can a Death Star be green!

The other day a message reached me from Yoda, the wise and ancient Jedi master, in this case an organic wine producer in the depths of the Mosel Valley who must remain anonymous, that everything which WEINHIER published so far on the subject of the Mosel Bridge accurately reported the evil situation as he had seen it unfold. Most importantly, he confirmed that the Green Knights had indeed given up their campaign to stop this monstrous construction project after their election success without any discussion, much less a fight. How much did Eveline Lemke want a ministerial post in the State of Rheinland Pfalz and a place in the Imperial Council next to Darth Vader ? Enough to sell her Green principals, the future of the famous vineyard sites between Zeltingen and Bernkastel, plus the tourist industry in this section of the Mosel Valley down the river. Proof enough that she switched over to the Dark Side of the Force.

Of course, its the vineyards which particularly interest WEINHIER, but we are not immune to the wider political dimensions of all this. I mean, if the Greens of Rheinland Pfalz are capable of doing a 180° turn on a major issue which commits them to a policy of enviromental destruction based on voodoo economics, then you have to ask if the Greens are capable of this kind of betrayal on a national level too. To put it bluntly, is there any issue upon which we can trust them not to do a spectacular U-turn like this on ? It was this question which I addressed to Renate Kunst, the Green leader I know best, in my Wine Telegram 126 on ?????, but unfortunately I got no answer. So I repeat it here. RENATE KUNAST, PLEASE TELL US WHICH SIDE YOU’RE ON, Eveline Lemke and Darth Vader’s or that of this unique environmental, agricultural and cultural asset.

Then there is the issue of the cost. When Eveline Lemke defends her unscrupulous actions by saying the reason the Mosel Bridge couldn’t be stopped was the horrendous fines Rheinland Pfalz would have to pay for cancelling the project she deliberately only considers one set of costs. What about the loss of business for the hotels and restaurants in the immediate area of the bridge during the construction period (7 years on paper, but almost certainly much longer in fact) and after ? Some may well go brankrupt, but even they will recieve no compensation from the state. Again and again the local winegrowers have pointed out how they fear the road on the Hunsrück end of the bridge will negatively affect the water-supply in the those great vineyards mentioned above. In a hot dry year, that could mean a loss of both quantity and quality. These very real costs do not seem to interest Eveline Lemke at all, because it is the winegrowers who will pay them, not Rheinland Pfalz. By the time the state picks up the tab for long-term effects like depopulation and the abandonment of vineyards she will have moved on. Eveline Lemke, if you think all this is absurd, then I regret to say that you don’t undertsand the first thing about ecology and economics. Maybe you are already on your way to becoming the next Darth Vader.

Having just returned from Planet New York I can confirm that friends of Mosel Riesling on the other side of the galaxy continue to be as incensed about this issue as the thousands of people on the Mosel who voted for the Greens on 27th March (including 75 on tiny Ürzig, one of the most arch-conservative planets in the universe). WEINHIER is not trying to whip up hatred, but to ask the questions an intelligent 10 year old who just had his first sip of Wehlener Sonnenuhr would. Ever since the episode with the emperror’s new clothes politicial leaders hated this kind of comment, but we consider it essential if something resembling democracy is to be preserved.

I, Han Solo, just climbed in my Mellenium Falcon and travelled through Hyperspace to the Mosel Valley in order to evade the Imperial starships. Wish me luck on my secret mission to stop the Mosel Bridge by sending MAY THE FORCE BE WITH YOU to the rebell HQ at kontakt@pro-mosel.de

EPISODE 2

This Princess went over to the Dark Side of the Force

Darth Vader, the politician perviously known as Kurt Beck, had good reason to puff himself with pride as he announced the coalition contract for the new Imperial Council of the German state of Rheinland Pfalz the other day. With a flick of his laser sword he turned the prospect of defeat at the hands of the Green Knights into a tactical victory for his evil Galactic Empire. By what vile trick did he manage to cling to his position as „Führer“ ? After inviting the leading Green Knights to climb into bed with him for a spot of old-fashioned political prostitution he offered them important positions in his evil Empire. Eveline Lemke went over to the Dark Side in return for the job of minister for the economy, transport, agriculture and winegrowing. This ruse also had an interesting side-effect. Since Beck became Vader his erstwhile SPD red has steadily browned. I’m not talking about boring old Nazi-Brown, but a murky brown that has now gained a green shimmer more appropriate to our dark age.

That the Green Knights of Rheinland Pfalz are not the Jedi they claimed to be is now plain for all to see on their own website. The reason they give there for caving in to Vader’s demand that construction of his Death Star, the monstrous Mosel Bridge, continue is the „horrendous compensation payments“ that Rheinland Pfalz would have to pay to construction companies, and the companies supplying the steel and concrete if the project was cancelled. Also for the Green Knights Money makes the Galaxy go round. Those under the sway of the Dark Side of the Force always portrayed money as an honourable reason to destroying beautiful things like this famous section of the Mosel Valley along with the world-class Riesling vineyards there and the livelihoods of thousands of inhabitants of the Mosel Valley. Bizarrely, having just put the Empire’s finances before the Mosel environment and it’s people, the Green Knights also claim on their website that, „now, as then, we stand on the side of the opponents of this pointless and costly project“. They still want us to believe they’re real Jedi Knights !

They no doubt hope that I, Han Solo, along with the other Rebels under the leadership of Princess Leia, or Sarah Washington, will become docile subjects of the evil Empire. We can’t do that, because we remember Eveline Lempke’s own words about the Mosel Bridge of 19. August 2010: „Minister President Beck and Minister [for the economy, etc.] Hering must finally distance themselves from this ecologicaly and economicaly damaging project. The Mosel Valley lives from winegrowing and tourism, not from lorries rushing over and past it.“ Now we demand that Ministerin Lemke must finally distance herself from this ecologically and economicaly damaging project, otherwise she makes herself an accessory to Vader’s work of enviromental destruction economics. I’d call that very bad karma indeed.

The evil force that resides in reinforced concrete claims another victim and we rebels must confront a new enemy, but we have no fear, for we know that THE FORCE IS WITH US. Please email these words to the rebel leadership at kontakt@pro-mosel.de.

We’ve been asked the question why WEINHIER is getting mixed up in this „political“ struggle. The answer is that it is necessary to become politicall active when so many great vineyard sites between Zeltingen to Bernkastel are fighting for survival. For those who think only in money terms it would certainly be possible for a clever young economist to calculate their value, but their cultural value for Germany and Planet Wine are greater still. If the Wehlener Sonnenuhr can be sacrficed to political egoism and short-term profits for suppliers of steel and concrete today, then tomorrow the best vineyards of another regions will be threatened. Everything which has to do with wine ultimately, even the cool new internet community this site will shortly become, depends ultimately on vineyards. It is a matter of principal: the safekeeping of nature/God and man’s creation, or it’s mindless destruction.

EPISODE 1

Lord Vader and his Mosel Death Star

Like everything else in this world steel and concrete have a Light Side and a Dark Side and it is important to remember this. There’s plenty of modern architecture, such as the Chrysler Building in New York or the new German Chancellor in Berlin, in which reinforced concrete shines. But during the last years an evil force which resides in these materials has been spreading its influence ever further.

At first it seemed as if Kurt Beck, Minister President of the German state of Rheinland Pfalz, was just another arrogant, patriarchal politician with a mild case of the Sun King Syndrome. Then he fell under the influence of the Dark Side and suddenly, in spite of continuing with the practiced smiles, waving to the crowd and self-important speeches, he became Darth Vader.

Many of those in the inner circle of the politician previously known as Kurt Beck struggle to maintain the illusion that their lord and master has not been taken over by an evil force which resides in steel and concrete, but in their hearts they all now it is true. None is more torn between the Dark Side and Light Side of reinforced concrete than Hendrik Hering, the not quite Luke Skywalker of our tale, whose only wish was to follow in his political father’s footsteps, but now knows only too well that it is Darth Vader he is serving.

Under Princess Leia, also known as Sarah Washington, the rebels gathered on Planet Uerzig to plan their attack upon the great evil threatening the valley, the Hochmoseluebergang or Mosel Bridge, Vader’s Death Star. Vainly the rebels tried to win Hering over to the Light Side of the force, that is for the protection of environmental and cultural assets, for sane economic policies, but his greed for power was too great and he fell ever deeper under the influence of the Dark Side.

The people of Rheinland Pfalz would have realized how their leader had been turned by the evil in steel and concrete much earlier if their journalists had not fallen also under Vader’s spell. Only days ago it become clear just how dangerous the Dark Side really is.

When the Green knights who fought so hard and long with the rebels surprised all by storming the parliament of Rheinland Pfalz it seemed that Vader’s power had been broken, but this victory turned out to be hollow. Immediately they had entered the Landtag in Mainz the Greens bowed down before Lord Vader and let him take them all from behind, savouring the pleasure.

I, Han Solo, write this from the other side of the galaxy where the people received this news with consternation and dismay. “How can that be ?” they ask me, “how can Greens agree to this environmental destruction and accept the policy of voodoo economics behind it ?” I reply that though the Empire strikes back, they forget the true Power of the Force.

Shortly I will climb in my spaceship, the Millenium Falcon, and rejoin the rebels. We shall destroy the Death Star and if Vader is on board then him with it. Show your support by mailing kontakt@pro-mosel.de the message MAY THE FORCE BE WITH YOU.

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What the hell is Gonzo ?

The icy wastes of Piemont where I wrote about the icy wastes of wine journalism

A Brief Introduction to Gonzo Wine Journalism

Notes from the Piemontese Alps, January 2009

Just what the hell is gonzo wine journalism ?

I may be in a small minority, but I believe in indirect answers to straight questions. Well-rounded explanation that seems to settle the matter once and for all are one of the things which got us into the present mess, for nothing is ever really settled for very long. And in this isolated house high in the mountains – into which we had to dig our way with shovels and a pick – I’ve got more than enough time to spin this story out and examine this thing from many angles.

I could start by claiming that none of this is my fault, because it really wasn’t my idea. But any statement I make which attempts to reduce my responsibility in this matter, however indirectly, would be some kind of lie, since this whole thing is about the search for truth; the truth in wine and the truths which wine has lead me to, continues leading me to. In fact, it was Dee Lite’s idea.

At the time, the summer of 1991, she was the wine columnist of a British newspaper and we were on a strange press trip to the sunny Portuguese island province of Madeira. We were walking back to our hotel from the town centre of Funchal, the island’s slightly crumbling capital, one afternoon and I asked her what her goal as a journalist was. Put like this the question sounds dull and predictable, but we’d been chewing over the state of journalism at this very particular moment, and in that context it sounded very different. It was just a couple of years after the fall of the Berlin Wall immediately after the Cold War’s end, and even the Iron Lady Thatcher had abruptly departed. Everything seemed to be in flux in the most promising way.

Gonzo wine journalism !” Dee replied; three electrifying words. Although my head was instantly in a wild spin I immediately understood what she meant: to write about wine the way Hunter S. Thompson had written about the American Dream. It was more than a decade since I’d dipped a toe into Thompson’s ‘Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas’, but so explosive was what I’d read that it had etched itself into my mind. The book was, like much else of his work, a freewheeling, full-throttle, no-holds-barred, do or die search for personal truth. It had been lubricated with a super-size-me cocktail of drugs and hard liquor, but that only added a garish range of colours.

Unlike Thompson who never seemed able to decide which stimulant was the right one and gave every available drug at least one serious test drive, for Dee Lite  there was never any doubt about her drug of choice: wine. More important than this identity of subject and intoxicant was a vision of writing about wine which communicated the rush of sensual and intellectual discovery. When it comes to wine the border between the two is totally illusory, the product of nit-picking blinkered rationality.

When I got home I was all fired up and wrote a much more adventurous story about Madeira wine today than I would if I hadn’t had that conversation with this daring colleague I couldn’t get out of my mind.

Somehow word got out about what I’d written before it appeared in ‘Decanter’ magazine and several people unsuccessfully tried to get its publication stopped. After it rolled off the presses there was a heated discussion of it in the cabinet of Madeira’s autonomous government and word was passed to me that I shouldn’t try to return to the island any time soon.

What was the terrible thing I’d done ? Slightly cautiously, that is shooting downhill on a bike with one brake half-on in order not to gain “too much” speed, I’d written the painful and largely suppressed truth about the decline of the island’s wine industry. To placate my vociferous critics, who all had a direct or indirect commercial interest, a silver-haired Big Name in wine journalism was wheeled out to write an alternative Madeira story in the next issue of ‘Decanter’. Just as the critics wanted he dressed up a one-sided version of history as news, but who knows maybe he also saved my neck ?

Just a year after this I met my now wife, Ursula Heinzelmann (then a sommeliére and restaurant manager, now a successful food and wine journalist) and for some time I was pretty distracted with the struggle to set up our own home in Berlin hampered by some fairly serious financial problems.

Much of my first book in German ‘Die großen deutschen Rieslingweine’ or The Great Riesling Wines of Germany, was written during the first months of 1994 in Hotel Bogota on the Schlüterstraße in Berlin under rather desperate conditions. We were bankrupt and my tiny desk was close to a very draughty window, so that when during a short ice age in January I had to write wrapped in a blanket.

Once again it was only after publication that I realized what I’d done. Without thinking about it, or about German press law, I’d simply written the truth as I’d experienced it. Suddenly a handful of winegrowers who were clearly frothing at the mouth were threatening to sue and dozens of others were steaming with fury. “Like a Wild Boar” was the title of the story about the controversy in ´Der Spiegel´. The moment I saw it in Café Central during a brief stop in Vienna on the way home from Northern Italy one cold November afternoon I knew that it was all true and great publicity too.

When the one winegrower who actually sued me finally got in front of the judge he suddenly realized he was facing the possibility of a very public humiliation and caved in, agreeing to a settlement greatly in my favour. This was partly due to him having hired one of the nation’s worst lawyers who’d then given his naive client a wildly inflated idea of his chances in court. It was all very surreal.

After I got my head out of that noose I made a very stupid mistake by trying to write well, developing a highly self-conscious form of wine literature that was often too clever for its own good. Fear of further legal action cramped my style during the late 1990s. The weak nerves that had prevented me from becoming a punk during my teens held me back again, slamming on the breaks just as I was picking up speed.

Some things worked out in spite of this, particularly the articles I wrote for ´Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung´ magazine, but these were high-brow conventional journalism, rather than under-the-wire gonzo. They helpped me give up writing for British and American wine magazines, which was a great relief. There editors were too anxious to pigeon-hole me as their expert on German wine, as if my postal address automatically put a severe limit my mental horizon. I am not a number, I am a free man!”

Unfortunately, I wasn’t living this credo; it was just a theory to which I subscribed. Worse still, away from my writing I was discovering that I had an addiction to happy endings and what the consequences of this dependency are. The combination tipped me into an ever deeper depression. At the end of 1998 my wife and I tried to move from the Wedding area to Mitte, the heart of East Berlin, and crash landed again in Hotel Bogota. (Thanks Joachim Rissman for saving us from destitution for a second time and to the hotel staff for helping us though this harsh period).

Finally we won our battle with the developer of our new apartment and moved into our present home in June 1999, but by then I was suffering quite seriously from depression. My first trip to California in seven years in the summer of 2000 finally enabled me to get some distance from all my problems and see that I’d lost both my chosen path and the determination to follow it wherever it lead me.

The word gonzo wasn’t in my mind at that moment, but it was the direction I was moving in. By the time I returned home it was clear to me that any claim to objectivity in my work, however indirect, had to go right out the window if I was going to get somewhere more interesting. Even scientists measuring “concrete” phenomena choose to do so one way rather than another using certain kinds of instruments instead of others. Scientific method is a human construct and the history of science helps shape its future.

When it comes to journalism you can work more or less systematically, but there’s no such thing as objectivity. Evoking illusions of objectivity and comprehensiveness are the symptoms of a diseased form of journalism that is often mistaken for normal good health. This condition ceases to be benign when the journalists suffering from it decide to abandon the search for truth entirely and tell the public what the editors think they want to read/hear.

Fundamentally the only difference between this and how the CIA gave Dick Cheney and Donald Rumsfeld the “evidence” they needed to justify invading Iraq is of degree. An epidemic of this virus is one of the things which got the world into its present mess. Of course, sitting here in this well-heated house whose kitchen is stuffed full of good food and wine makes it easier to say all this, but this favourable situation doesn’t reduce the truth in this statement one jot.

Lies dressed up as AAA truth have been second only to greed in pushing us in the direction of the abyss. No doubt many of the major newspapers and big news networks will deny that they ever did this, but if you look at when they started reporting critically on Iraq and the Subprime Scam then it was really rather late.

Then, I started reading Thompson’s books thoroughly and was amazed by what I found. Not only was there more truth than “chaos”, but the “chaos” showed me how he discovered his truth and why he saw them in a certain light. Here was three-dimensional journalism: facts many of which were too explosive to be “true” in the everyday sense of this word, the context in which they made the fullest sense and how the journalist came to regard these as his truth.

It was clear from that moment that with gonzo wine journalism I wasn’t going to win generous praise or make a lot of money. Recently I’ve take to saying the following lines to myself to remind myself of this: nobody told you to climb Mt. Everest, and nobody told you it would be easy. With these words I steel myself for the challenges to come.

Thompson frequently wrote about how when the going gets weird the weird turn pro, and he certainly considered himself one of the professionally weird and thus particularly well qualified to comment on the situation when things turned weird. Now things are getting weird and are going to get very tough. In spite of the widespread recognition of this I don’t think many people yet realize fact that because we failed to learn many lessons from recent history we are doomed to repeat it as a collection of episodes rearranged in an original combination and sequence nobody can predict.

Our only hope of avoiding this fate is to start learning from recent history real fast. But at the moment many people seem to be worrying about whether to cancel that third holiday this year or put back buying a new car until next year. Another painful truth is that for many years we in the West were living under the illusion that we were the Masters of Globalisation, when we were actually like little kids who imagined that whoever had the biggest stack of tokens at the end of the game is top dog. Now we suddenly find that our tokens are almost entirely worthless and it is we who are caught in globalisation’s grip, maybe even between its jaws.

I don’t want to become some strange kind of prophet of doom, but after a decade spent studying globalisation and wine these things strike me as unavoidable conclusions. Wine isn’t the financial industry, real estate, the automobile industry, oil or nuclear proliferation, but globalisation is globalisation and I’ve spent years in the Belly of the Beast.

Gonzo journalism demands that you crawl inside your human subjects and when you can’t see the borderline between them and yourself, then you know that they’ve started crawling inside of you too. Whether that’s a good thing or not is something everyone has to decide for themselves, but regardless of how you see that it you do gonzo journalism, then afterwards you’re a radically different person from beforehand, certainly a less blinkered person.

I spent the last decade doing in this in a variety of cultures around Planet Wine and there were some moments when I thought that I was completely lost and would never make it back home and once again look like the person other people imagine me to be. On the flights from Berlin to Paris and Paris to Turin yesterday I ploughed through all the English and German language newspapers I could pick up at those airports and felt seriously shaken. I recognized so many faces of globalisation from my research trips for ‘Wine Far and Away’ (the book I’m currently working on) that I felt them crowding in upon me and stuffed the pile of newsprint in my bag.

Of course, some aspects of the mire we find ourselves in are so obvious that even fools ought to be able to recognize them. That old-fashioned greed is the principal villain of the piece should be clear to everyone except those who dismiss reporters as “the reality-based community.” Self-importance come a close second or does that honour actually belong to believing in comforting lies? This terrible trio latch onto so many things and wine is one of them.

That fact has convinced me that however many other tasks are lined up for this so called “New Year” – suddenly those words were always so positive sound like a horrible threat, rather than a clean slate ready for optimistic thoughts – I must finally put pen to paper and write a story that has been turning circles in the air during the last two years. My reason for not writing ‘Double Trouble in Wine Paradise’ and ‘The Great Wine Party’ was always that I hadn’t got punch lines, but this now seems like a petty excuse. Or would you say that a wine with a three figure Euro profit margin per bottle was in tune with what everybody says is the worst economic crisis since the 1930s? And is winegrowers awarding their wines fancy titles with the slimmest of arguments to make them look like something they’re not in tune with Obama’s call for more “transparency”?

No and no again. I’ve dodged telling these stories too long. Watch this space!

Posted in Gonzo | 3 Comments

WEINHIER Post-online Update – KEIN PANIK !

Stuart ist sehr traurig wegen der große WEINHIER-Missverständnis

Die erste drei Tage nachdem WEINHIER online gegenagen ist waren sehr aufregend, zuerst weil es sehr schnell zu erstaunlich viel interne Kommunikation gekommen ist, aber auch wegen der Kontroverse die unsere AGB auslgelöst hat. Erst 40 Stunden später habe ich überhaupt begriffen was schief gelaufen ist. Inzwishcen hat das WEINHIER-Team getagt und musste mit Entsetzen feststellen, dass es in Hinblick auf die Reglung zur Kostenfreiheit der Nutzung von Winzer und der Werbung in den AGB tatsächlich ein folgenreiches Missverständis in der interne Kommunikation gegeben hat. Auf diesem Missverständnis beruht die erste Version der AGB, die auch unserem rechtlichen Berater Horst Hummel erhebliche Kopfschmerzen bereitet hat und mich ziemlich traurig gemacht hat (wie man oben sieht). Diese konnten inzwischen Gott sei Dank beseitigt werden. Um Alles 100% klar zu machen ZU KEINEM ZEITPUNKT WAR GEPLANNT, DASS WEINHIER WERBUNG AUF FREMDEN HOMEPAGES VERANSTALTET!!! Es geht  ausschließlich um Werbung auf und innerhalb WEINHIER. Ab 1. August wird es die Option für alle Nutzer geben, Werbefreitheit bei WEINHIER zu wählen, Ausschließlich diese Option wird kostenpflichtig  sein (für Winzer 99,- Euro brutto / Jahr, für Fans 19,90 Euro brutto pro Jahr). Die entsprechenden Änderungen in den AGBs werden kurzfristig veröffentlicht. WIR ENTSCHULDIGEN UNS FÜR DIESEN HANDWERLICHEN FEHLER und bedauern die dadurch verursachte Aufregung.

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WEINHIER Post-online Update – DONT PANIC !

Stuart is very sad about the great WEINHIER misunderstanding !

The first three days that WEINHIER was online were more than exciting. Firstly, we were amazed by how quickly a great deal of internal communication occured, secondly we were shocked by the controversy which our Terms & Coniditions (AGB in German) unleashed. It was 40 hours before I realized exactly what had happened. Since then the WEINHIER team has gone over the whole thing in detail and was shocked to discover that a major misunderstanding had occured regarding the rules on the free use of the site and advertising. All of this cost our legal advisor a very serious headache and made me feel very sad (as the picture above shows). Just to make everything crystal clear AT NO POINT DID WEINHIER HAVE ANY INTENTION OF OBTAINING FREE ADVERTISING ON YOUR HOMEPAGES!!! The thing which we failled to communicate was that while there is advertising on every page at WEINHIER, you can buy ad-free status. This optional service will be available from 1. August and will cost 99 Euros per year ink. tax for winegrowers and 19,90 Euros per year ink. tax for fans. All this payment does is compensate us for the loss of advertising income. Our Terms & Conditions will be changed very shortly. WE APPOLOGISE FOR THIS MISTAKE!

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WEINHIER letzte Update: wir sind online!

Wunder geschehen, auch in der WEINHIER-Werkstatt. Seit 01:15 Uhr am Montag, den 20. Juni sind wir online! Es hat ein gute Monat länger als geplannt gedauert und war ein ziemliche Kamps. Herzlichen Dank für Ihre Geduld! und herzlich willkommen in der neue Zeitalter der Weinkommunikation bei www.weinhier.de

Grüße & Danke

Stuart Pigott, Brendan Howell und das WEINHIER-Team

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WEINHIER last Update: we’re online !

Miracles happen, also in the WEINHIER workshop ! Since 01:15 Central European Times on Monday, 20. June we’re online! Many thanks for your patience with us. It took a whole month longer than we expected, but now we can finally say welcome to the new era of wine communications at www.weinhier.de

Best wishes and many thanks

Stuart Pigott, Brendan Howell and the WEINHIER Team

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WEINHIER Update 8 bald auf Ihr Computer !

Wie Nietzsche meinte: Alles was uns nicht tötet macht uns noch stärker

Endlich können Brendan Howell und ich (oben unterwegs in Berlin-Kreuzberg) eine gute  Nachricht senden. Die technische Störung die WEINHEIR kurz vor dem geplannten online gehen am Dienstag, den 17. Mai zum stillstand brachte ist fast komplett behoben! Jetzt hoffen wir sehr am Freitag, den 17. Juni – genau ein halbes Jahr nachdem Brendan und ich unsere Grundsatz-Entscheidung für WEINHIER traffen – mit volle interaktive Funktionalität online zu gehen. Jeder der sich bisher anmeldete, auch alle dies zwischen jetzt und dann sich anmelden, werden eine Email mit genaue Information vorab bekommen. Bis dann können sie weiterhin die Darth-Mosel- Story auf www.weinhier.de verfolgen.

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WEINHIER Update 8 coming to your computer soon !

As Nietzsche said, anything which doesn't kill you makes you stronger

Finally my partner Brendan Howell and I (above in drinking mode in Berlin-Kreuzberg) have good news. After crashing into a brick wall due to serious technical difficulties immediately before our planned launch at 6pm on Tuesday, 17th May for a while we feared it might take several months to get WEINHIER up and running fully. However, the last couple of weeks saw dramatic progress at the construction site of our ambitious virtual communal residence. With our fingers crossed, we  now anounce that on Friday, 17th June – exactly half a year after Brendan and I took our momentous decision  – WEINHIER will go online. Anyone who already registered, or who registers by then, will recieve an email tellingyou exactly when you can start building your own page and start using our interactive functions . Until then, visit the ongoing Darth Mosel story at www.weinhier.de

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Der erstaunliche Herr Hummel

Horst Hummel, ungarische Winzer und berliner Anwalt

Außerhalb Deutschlands kennen die wenigsten Weinfreunde die aktuelle deutsche Weinszene. Viele von ihnen neigen dazu zu glauben, dass deutsche Jungwinzer genauso drauf sind wie junge ehrgeizige Winzer überall auf Planet Wein. Dass es in Wein-Deutschland eine besondere kreative Freiheit gibt und in Wein-Berlin ein Multi-Kulti-Geist herrscht, können sich die meisten Ausländer nicht vorstellen. „In Germany, are you crazy?“ fragen sie oft ungläubig, wenn man davon erzählt. Für alle diese Menschen erzähle ich jetzt die Geschichte des erstaunlichen Herrn Hummel.

Die Hummel-Weine aus dem Villány-Gebiet in Ungarn, nahe an der kroatischen Grenze im Süden des Landes, sind mir erstmals vor fünf oder sechs Jahren in Berlin begegnet. Beim ersten Kennnelernen wusste ich nicht, was ich davon halten sollte. Ein bis zwei Jahre später lernte ich in Berlin einen eindeutig deutschen Menschen namens Horst Hummel kennen, und auch da wusste ich nicht, was ich von ihm halten sollte. Obwohl Hummel oft in Villány ist, um seine acht Hektar Weinberge zu pflegen und die daraus entstehenden Weine im Keller zu begleiten, arbeitet er immer noch als Rechtsanwalt in Berlin (was auch der Hauptmarkt für seine Weine ist). Seit unserer ersten Begegnung fiel jeder neue Jahrgang von Hummel besser aus, und 2008 begann er, jeweils im Februar in Berlin ein grandiose Villány-Weinparty zu veranstalten. Ich lernte ihn nach und nach besser kennen, als Anwalt Horst Hummel, der beide Füße auf dem Boden hat, und als skurrilen Winzer und Wein-Unternehmer.

Eins kam zum anderen, und seit February 2011 ist Hummel der WEINHIER-Anwalt. Manche Leute scheinen zu glauben, dass er diesen Job aufgrund seienr Bereitschaft bekam, für nichts zu arbeiten, im Gegenzug für viel Pigott-Lob für seine Weine. Tatsächlich sind aber bereits einige tausend Euro auf sein Konto von uns überwiesen worden, und damit kann das nicht stimmen. Der wahre Grund, warum wir uns für ihn entschieden haben, lautet dass er sich gleichermaßen bei Presserecht und Wein auskennt. Noch besser, er teilt meine und WEINHIER Mitgründer Brendan Howells Überzeugung, dass das Thema Wein im Netz bisher viel zu knapp und schlapp zur Geltung kam.

Aber zurück zum Winzer Horst Hummel. Im Laufe der 1990er ließ ihn seine Begeisterung für den Weinbau und seine Faszination mit Ungarn – nach wie vor das unterbewerteste Weinbauland Europas – von einem Weinbaugebiet zum nächsten ziehen, auf der Suche nach Weinbergen. Am Ende seines zweiten Besuchs in Villány war er bereits Besitzer von mehr als sieben Hektar. Wie er seine erste Weinlese und die Winzer 1998/9 beschreibt, war es eine ziemlich harte Einführung ins Winzerleben, und es folgte bald darauf eine nicht weniger ruppige Einführung ins Weinmarketing und den hartnäckigen Ostblock-Ruf, der Ungarn im Westen anhängt, was nicht gerade verkaufsfördernd wirkt.

Es hat leider lange gedauert, bis mich das neue Wein-Ungarn erreichte, aber dann hat es mich richtig gepackt. Dafür verantwortlich war Zoli Heiman aus Székszard, den ich 2008 auf der FH für Weinbau in Geisenheim kennenlernte. Er organisierte zwei tolle Reisen in seine Wein-Heimat und öffnete dabei meine Augen für die ungarische Kultur.

Ich entdeckte eine ziemlich komplexe Weinszene, die mengenmäßig von sauberer, korrekten aber banaler Massenware dominiert wird. Am anderen Ende der Skala liegen die mächtigen (und überextrahierten) Rotweine, die von den Neureichen Budapestern bevorzugt werden. Mir erscheinen die meisten dieser Gewächse wie trockene Portweine! Doch daneben gibt es die hochindividuellen trockenen Weiß- und Rotweine, vorwiegend aus authochtonen Traubensorten, die genauso eigenständig sind wie die Spitzenweine des deutschsprachigen Raums, aber zusammen ein ganz eigenes Geschmacksuniversum bilden. Zu dieser Gruppe gehören die Hummel-Weine.

Hummels Portugieser Rotwein jammert auf hohem Niveau

Das Bild oben zeigt einen von Hummels neuesten und innovativsten Weinen, den Jammerthal, einen Rotwein aus der Portugieser-Traube. Portugieser genießt unter den Winzern Villánys neben den Berühmtheiten Cabernet und Merlot keinen besonderen Ruf. Der Name des Weins, wie viele andere Namen in Villány, ist eindeutig deutsch. Im frühen 18. Jahrhundert wurde das fast leere Gebiet von Donauschwaben besiedelt. Jammerthal ist die vermutlich bekannteste Spitzenlage des kleinen Gebiets, was aber manche deutschen Fachleute nicht davon abhält, das Etikett zu verurteilen: „Das können Sie, dürfen Sie nicht auf eine Weinflasche schreiben!“ Dieser Aufschrei geschieht, bevor sie den reichhaltigen, seidigen Rotwein mit dem herrlichen Duft reifer roter Beeren und Kirschen überhaupt verkostet haben.

Die andere beachtliche Innovation dieses Jahres bei Hummel ist der noch ziemlich unentwickelte 2009 „Spatz“, ein Kékfrankos (der Name von Blaufränkisch / Lemberger in seiner ungarischen Heimat). Trotz Kraft und Konzentration handelt es sich um einen recht schlanken Rotwein, der noch viel Flaschenreife braucht, um seine beste Form zu erreichen. Lässt man ihn im Glas eine Weile stehen, entwickelt er Holunder-, Kakaopulver- und Graphitnoten. Für Hummel ist diese Traube „der Pinot Noir Mitteleuropas“, eine Überzeugung, die er mit Roland Velich von Moric in Burgenland/Österreich teilt. Auch in punkto Ausbau ist es der richtige Vergleich. Hummel und Velich sind beide sehr vorsichtig mit neuen Eichenfässern im Keller. Der kleine Bruder des Spatz, Hummels „einfacher“ 2008 Villány Kékfrankos ist deutlich offener mit Pfeffer- und Lakritz-Aromen sowie animierender Saftigkeit. Jammertal und „Spatz“ kosten 19,50 Euro direkt von Hummel (in Berlin), was freundlich ist für diese hohe Qualität. Der Villány Kékfrankos hingegen ist für 7,50 Euro ein Knüller-Schnäppchen.

Und was zum Teufel ist das alles hinter Hummel im obenstehenden Foto? Der Winzer-Rechtsanwalt nennt es seine „Inspirationswand“. Zum Verkostungsmarathon in seiner Wohnung in Berlin-Prenzlauer Berg spielte im Hintergrund Neil Young’s Live-Album ‘Rust Never Sleeps’. Das ist der deutsche Wein-Zeitgeist im 21. Jahrhundert.

Ein Blick im Hirn von Hernn Hummel

Horst Hummel Villány – Berlin

Buchholzer Straße 9 – 10437 Berlin

E-Mail: hh@weingut-hummel.com

Netz: www.weingut-hummel.com

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The extraordinary Herr Hummel

Horst Hummel, Hungarian winegrower and Berlin lawyer

Outside Germany few people have much idea what’s happening in the wine scene here. They often make the mistake of assuming that dynamic young German winegrowers are like dynamic young winegrowers everywhere else. They also find it hard to wrap their minds around the idea that there’s a special kind of creative freedom in Wine-Germany and a multi-cultural spirit in Wine-Berlin. So for their benefit here is the breathtaking story of the  extraordinary Herr Hummel…

I bumped into the Hummel wines from the Villány region of Hungary, close to the border with Croatia, in Berlin about five or six years ago and didn’t know what to make of them. Then a year or two later, also in Berlin, was introduced to a German called Horst Hummel and din’t know what to make of him either. Though Hummel is often in Villány tending his 8 hectares of vines and the rather wide range of wines he make from them, but when he’s in Berlin he’s also a part-time lawyer. (Berlin is also the main market for his wines). Since that first meeting each set of his new releases was more exciting than the one before it, and in 2008 he began staging an annual Villány tasting party in Berlin each February. Through all of this I got to know both Hummels, the feet-firmly-on-the-ground lawyer and the eccentric winegrower.

One thing lead to another, and in February 2011 he became WEINHIER’s lawyer. Some people seem to think that he got the job though some special deal whereby he works for nothing in return for good write ups, but we’ve already paid him too many thousands of Euros for that to be true. The actual reason that we picked him is that he knows his way around both press law and the wine scene. Better still, he shares the belief that wine on the net is seriously undeveloped which WEINHIER co-founder Brendan Howell and I share.

But back to the winegrower Horst Hummel. In the 1990s Hummel’s enthusiasm for wine and a fascination with Hungary – still clearly the most under-rated winegrowing nation in Europe – lead him to go prospecting for a winegrowing location. By the end of his second visit to Villány in 1998 he was the owner of more than 7 hectares of vineyards there. From the way he describes the 1998 harvest and the winter which followed seem to have been an abrupt and painful introduction to the realities of winemaking. Shortly afterwards came a no less abrupt and painful introduction to the realities of wine marketing including the special problems caused by Hungary’s Ost-Block Image in Western Europe (not exactly a great sales pitch for wines of any kind).

It took a while before Hungary got its tentacles into me, but when I did I really wanted to know what was happeing there. The man responsible for thsis was Zoli Heiman of Székszard who I got to know while I studied at the famous Geisenheim wine school in 2008/9. He organised two trips to his country that opened my eyes to Hungarian wine and culture. There I discovered a rather complex wine industry, the widely-distributed Hungarian wines being mostly clean and correct, but banal. At the other end of the scale are massive (and massively over-extracted) reds produced for the nouveau riche of Budapest, which taste like dry port (if you can imagine that). Then there are the highly individual dry wines, often made from indigenous grape varieties, that are as striking as anything I’ve found in the German speaking world, which together form a completely distinct world of wine flavours unlike anything else. Hummel’s new wines clearly belong to this group.

Hummel's delicious new "Vale of Tears"

The picture above shows one of Hummel’s latest releases and one of his most daring wines, the 2009 Jammerthal, which is named after the vineyard and is made from the Portugieser grape. Portugieser is generally regarded by the winegrowers of Villány of something to be forgotten in favour of the fashionable Cabernets and Merlot, so they don’t take it seriously as Hummel has. The vineyard name is of German origin like many other names in Villány which was populated by Swabians in the early 18th century, and means „Vale of Tears“. It is arguably the most famous vineyard site in the entire region, but that doesn’t stop German wine merchants and sommleiers saying things to Hummel like, „you can’t write that on a wine label!“ even before they’ve tasted the rich and silky wine with its wonderful perfume of ripe red berries and cherries.

Hummel’s other remarkable innovation this year is the 2009 „Spatz“, a red from the Kékranfkos grape, also known as Blaufränkisch in Austria and Lemberger in Germany. It is still very closed and in spite of its density and power is decidedly sleek. Leave it to stand a while in the glass and it developes aromas of elderberry, cocoa powder and graphite. For Hummel this grape is „the Pinot Noir of Central Europe“, a conviction he shares with Roland Velich of Moric in Burgenland/Austria. This is the right comparison for both the „Spatz“, German for Sparrow, and its smaller brother, the juicy 2008 Villány Kékfrankos with its pepper and licorice character. The Jammertal and „Spatz“ both cost 19,50 Euros direct from Hummel, which is moderate for what you get in the glass. His regular Villány Kéfrankos is great a bargain at just 7,50 Euro.

And what the hell was the stuff on the wall behind Hummel in the photograph above ? The picture below shows the „Inspiration Wall“ in his apartment in Berlin-Prenzlauer Berg. My tasting marathon with him was accompanied by Neil Young’s live album ‘Rust Never Sleeps’ kranked up high. That’s the new German wine Zeitgeist!

Inside Horst Hummel's mind

Horst Hummel Villány-Berlin

Buchholzer Straße 9

10437 Berlin

E-Mail: hh@weingut-hummel.com

Web: www.weingut-hummel.com

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