Oregon Riesling Diary: Day 2 – Oregon Riesling Breakthrough (Part 1)

The last stop on my crazy Riesling World Tour is Oregon (OR), and although my strength is now fading fast after being on the road since January 7th these were exciting days. My visit started with the OR Technical Pre-Bottling 2014 Riesling Tasting at Penner-Ash winery that Lynn Penner-Ash so generously hosted. Thanks to the entire group of  30 plus winemakers who attended for accepting my presence at this internal tasting, because it not only enabled me to get an overview of what’s happening here (things are moving fast and in very positive directions), but also to gain some familiarity with how OR Riesling winemakers tick. I predict that the 2014 vintage will enable them to make a real breakthrough in recognition for the subtly aromatic and racy Rieslings of OR.

Finally, I got to visit James Frey at his Trisaetum winery in the Ribbon Ridge AVA and was able to taste these wines intensively. His 2013 Pinots and 2014 Rieslings (nearly all heading for release during the next few months) will surely put this winery on the map as one of the leading producers of both these grapes in OR. The single vineyard and Estates Reserve wines of both grapes have a staggering freshness and a wonderfully expressive fruit character. The Rieslings have a hint of youthful funk, but this is the kind of funk that is a sign for wines that can go the long haul. I can’t wait to taste them after they’ve been bottled and had a little time to settle down. As impressive as the 2013 Rieslings were I feel confident that the new wines are even better.

At Brooks Winery Chris Williams’ 2014 Rieslings (he’s pictured surrounded by them) are all in a truly embryonic state and it’s not possible to pass judgement on them as it is for wines that have finished fermentation and have received their first modest dose of sulphur to stabilize them. However, my gut tells me that they are big, ripe, spicy and have more than enough acidity to enable them to age for at least a decade. The 2003 Willamette Valley Riesling (the regular quality) from Brooks conclusively proved the wines aging potential when I was here last summer.

Brooks’ new winery has been open for several months now and has already been a big hit, not only for winemaker Chris Williams who finally has the space he needs to work without banging his elbows at every turn, but no less importantly for visitors and customers. Rather than present a series of shots of the new tasting room that don’t do its style and comfort justice (due to my limited photographic abilities) here’s a picture of the tasting room team of Claire Jarreau (left) and Sarah Mooney. Their degree of knowledge and competence also outclasses most winery tasting rooms by a street!

Brooks was a good place to stay for the last couple of nights. When a trip is this far advanced and a schedule gets this hectic, then you need peace and quiet to rest and reenergize, which the farmhouse here provided. I write this at the dining table just before packing for the drive to Portland where I will spend my last night on the road. Thanks to everyone who was brave enough to attend the screening of my movie WATCH YOUR BACK – The Riesling Movie (Part 1) at 3rd Street Pizza in McMinnville yesterday evening, also for your patience with all the problems! The mercy of the Great God of Wine and DHL was extended to us, and somebody from 3rd Street Pizza I wasn’t introduced to got the projection functioning. You saved us!

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Los Angeles Riesling Diary: Day 0 – Marlborough Family Photo-Album

White riot – I wanna riot / white riot – a riot of my own! 

TextI just made it to LA, but my head is still full of the wines of Marlborough and the faces behind them. Nobody did more to revolutionize dry and sweet white winemaking for the aromatic varieties (not just Riesling and Gewürztraminer, but also Sauvignon Blanc) than Andrew Hedley of Framingham. In a way I’m amazed that his story hasn’t been told a thousand times over, but maybe the fact that he has to speak with the aid of a servox really has made him a less exciting figure for some of my colleagues? Look out for the wines of the ‘F’ series to see what they made a mistake overlooking him. All of them are f***ing amazing! The only down-side is that they’re limited editions, for example, there were just 406 half bottles of the 2014 Riesling TBA.

John Forrest of Forrest wines almost accidentally stumbled onto a winner with his medium-sweet Riesling The Doctors’, which is remarkably close to a Kabinett wine from the Mosel in type (enormous freshness, lightness and crispness). This is now an 85,000 bottle per year brand, and has spawned a handful of imitators; always a sign of mainstream commercial success. John very generously opened every single vintage of this wine going back to the inaugural 1996, and even that wine was still in great shape. The 2014 may be the best yet, so John Forrest isn’t leaning back.

Normally I don’t go for the “standard” picture of the winegrower with her/his vines, but Anna Flowerday of Te Whare Ra (TWR) is pictured with her old Riesling vines planted back in 1979, which are also amongst Marlborough’s oldest vines period. Like all the TWR vines, they are in great shape and show what’s possible here with organic viticulture when the winegrower observes carefully what the natural conditions really are and how the vines actually respond them, as Jason and Anna do, rather than believing Rudolf Steiner’s (the “father” of biodynamics) idea were a recipe. By the way, Te Whare Ra was one of the wineries I visited on my first trip to Marlborough back in 1988. Today the focus is on dry wines, including an impressive dry Riesling from the pictured vines

This is one of the more unusual “faces” of Marlborough winemaker and was spotted in the cellars of Nautilus. For a winery of this style – total production is pushing 1.5 million bottles per year – winemaker and general manager Clive Jones proves that quantity is not incompatible with quality in this region. I particularly liked his Pinot Noirs and he also had the only successful Grüner Veltliner I encountered, a fashionable grape that is very fickle in this “pseudo-Mediterranean climate”, as one leading winemaker called it.

Part of Marlborough’s strength comes from its multi-cultural mix, although this is something that doesn’t hit you in the face when you arrive. For example, Paul Bourgeois, the winemaker of Spy Valley is definitely a Kiwi, but, of course, that name is extremely French (for example, Henri Bourgeois makes some of the best Sancerre in the Loire). Whether this has something to do with the fact that Paul’s success with Gewürztraminer and Pinot Gris, both of which he makes in an Alsace inspired style is hard to say, but those (usually off-dry) wines are wonderfully rich and aromatic without ever being loud.

Seresin Estate is definitely the most famous bio-dynamic producer in Marlborough and with good reason. The team here has developed a range of alternative range wine styles – everything from powerful Pinot Noir reds, through medium-dry Riesling to dry Sauvignon bland – and mastered the often demanding technicalities of producing them without the kind of faults (oxidation and microbial issues) that afflict some producers working in this field. I thought that the way assistant winemaker Richard Gabrielsson chose to be photograph fitted this approach and his engaging personality perfectly. By the way, that skateboard he’s on was made from the wooden staves of an old Barrique!

And before this blog posting degenerates into a Marlborough family photo album it’s time to wrap it!

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New Zealand Riesling Diary: Day 2 – Watch Your Step in Sunny Marlborough

How did he, whoever he was, get a hold of my telephone number and then know when my phone would be switched on? Normally it’s switched off when I’m in somewhere  far removed from home like Marlborough/NZ, but suddenly there was a voice saying in a tone that I thought was seriously sarcastic, “so you’re finally here? Are you going to meet me at Xxxxx Tavern at 6pm today, or don’t you want to know the truth about this place?” Although it sounded as insulting as it did challenging there was no way I could turn it down. When I told him that I’d be there he laughed a bit too loud and said something that  looks innocuous written down, but sounded distinctly threatening: “be seeing you!” Clearly, I would have to watch my step.

I got to the Xxxxx Tavern about 6pm and ordered a beer. All these Taverns look alike and after I’d gone in I suddenly wondered if I really was in the right place, so when I ordered I checked with the barman. He was surly and his response that I was in the right place also sounded a bit insulting, however, as a journalist you get used to being treated all kinds of different ways ranging from fawning and groveling to outright abuse. It comes with the territory as does inspecting your surroundings however dull, and that’s what I did while I was waiting for my conspiratorial meeting. Of course, they were banal and tacky, pokies (“slots” for everyone in the outside world) bleeping away to themselves, but let’s face it that the inside of most bars around our planet are no better. Wine bars are different, because they are enlivened by the wine ethos, or working hard to be damned cool.

I was half way through my beer – it didn’t taste of much, but I was thirsty and the first beer always calms me down – when someone came in who I though might be what was clearly either going to be an informant or a complete waste of time. He ordered a beer and sat down in a corner in silent thought. Clearly, no information was coming from that direction. I turned back to my beer and was also lost in thought – going over the day’s four wine tastings and yesterday’s four tastings – and suddenly there was a young winemaker sitting next to you who’s appearance I later promised to keep as quiet about as his identity. I can’t even say which sex she/he was. Anonymous is the name.

“Well, now I’m seeing you and you are seeing me,” Anonymous snarled in a voice I recognized, and I wondered why it wanted to talk to me. “I’m telling you this because nobody else will,” it continued, “Marlborough is already in trouble, many people would like to feel free to say it out loud, but nobody want’s to be overheard saying it, because they know they’d get into trouble.” In my heart I knew what was coming, and, of course, there’s a pleasure in having your expectations confirmed. “We’re over-Sauvignoned in a major way, but there’s denial, the whole place is in denial. Sometimes denial and marketing are the same thing.” That didn’t seem so risky, but then I had to promise my source anonymity in order to be given permission to use his words.

When I left the Xxxxx Tavern I didn’t feel relieved though that a local person had confirmed what I’d been thinking for a long time. No, the fact that I’d tasted some good Sauvignons during the last couple of days made me feel a bit fearful in this the most beautiful end of the world I know. I hurried nervously past churches with spires, cute bungalows and too many supermarkets for a town this size to get home. Someone had told me that I’d be safe on Safe Street, but I wasn’t convinced. I wrote this with an invisible cloud hanging over my head.

 

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New Zealand Riesling Diary: Day 0 – Her Many Faces

One of the things that Riesling Downunder (the last three days in Melbourne) reminded me of is how Riesling has many faces. The diversity of Riesling beauty is something it takes some time and effort to appreciate well and it takes a lifetime to appreciate it fully. However, even just one of those Riesling faces is a many-facetted beauty that flashes one color then another depending upon where it stands and the way the light strikes it. All this beauty and paradox in a single wine would be impossible without the human dimension, that is without the people who make it, those who appreciate it (without them it might as well not exist!), and those who are intermediaries between these two groups, even if they are also that most banal of things, saleswomen and men, (just as winemakers are – we all have to sell something some time!)

The winemaker in these photographs is Theresa Breuer of the Georg Breuer estate in Rüdesheim/Rheingau, who I first met almost exactly 10 years ago when she was only 20. Yesterday her 2013 Berg Schlossberg was one of the high points of the International Dry Riesling Tasting at Riesling Downunder. Although this wine is still very much an infant it was all those things that the old books tell you a great Riesling should be: aromatic yet subtle, intense yet delicate, at once brightly charming and darkly mysterious. The winemaker as artist is certainly a cliché, and no new idea in my writing, however, this wine does in some way I can’t properly explain reflect it’s maker. And if I say that maybe I should therefore refer to hem as “she” and “her”?

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Australian Riesling Diary: Day 5 – The Depths and the Pinnacles at Riesling Downunder

Few people realize imagine why this blog doesn’t manage to post stories more regularly. postings. Not only is my life often hectic, but it doesn’t run more smoothly than yours does, and technology sometimes lets me down at the crucial moment. I wrote this around midnight last night, but the WiFi of the very classy Hotel Lindrum in Downtown Melbourne was inexplicably down, so after another delay here are my thoughts about Riesling Downunder.

I have to say that although the enthusiasm it generated and the exchange of ideas it generated was the most important thing about it, Riesling Downunder also greatly enhanced my knowledge of current Australian Rieslings. During the last couple of days I’ve tasted my way through a great swathe of them and see many positive trends. Not only is the winemaking better  with considerably less manipulation of the higher end wines taking place than was once the case, also the regional characteristics are much more prominently displayed. Beyond that there is a willingness to pay around with skin and/or less contact, with wild fermentation, residual sweetness and a slew of other methods that often (if not always) make the wines more interesting and harmonious.

These gains aren’t limited to new and rising stars as described in my blog postings from Western Australia described below. The single best young Australian dry Riesling I tasted since I arrived was the 2014 Warervale from Mitchell in the Clare Valley/South Australia, a wine that was completely wild-fermented to great advantage and without a hint of any of the (very real) disadvantages this technique can lead to. The Mitchells, pictured above, are no flaw in the pan, but have been making high quality dry Rieslings since 1975 and must therefore be considered part of the wine establishment of Australia.

At the other end of the scale there were – in my humble opinion –  a few new wines that were failed essays in funkiness, of which the 2013 ‘Didier’ Riesling from Shobbrook in the Eden Valley was some kind of bizarre high point. It was included in the ‘Ancient Arts’ seminar tasting that Mike Bennie lead yesterday afternoon with a small amount of help from me. When he asked me to say what I thought about it I started with three words, “I hate it”. The problem was that this wine had multiple issues (the nail polish aroma and a hint of vinegar were the most obvious) that obscured what good qualities it had. In that same tasting Glenn Barry of Knappstein proved with his 2013 ‘Insider’ Riesling that it’s entirely possible to push the winemaking envelope a long way – in this case by making a Riesling loaded with dry tannins extracted from the grape skins – without ending up with an unclean wine. Congratulations Glenn!

Sweet Riesling is still a category that many in the wine scene struggle a little bit to get to terms with, that is to actually just enjoy drinking. However, the ‘Revered Residual’ tasting yesterday morning included a bunch of excellent Riesling Spätlese wines from Germany – the 2013 Hermannshöhle from Dönnhoff, the 2013 Rothenberg from Gunderloch, the 2011 Würzgarten from Dr. Loosen, and the 2010 Scharzhofberger from Egon Müller-Scharzhof – that were wines of enormous complexity and great harmony. In the same kind of class were also a number of wines from other continents that stood out, most prominently, the 2011 #198 Reserve from Boundary Breaks in the Finger Lakes, New York/USA, the 2014 Block 1 from Felton Road in Central Otago/NZ  2013 Estate Reserve from Trisaetum in Oregon/US. Forget all the out-of-date clichés, because this is the erotic side of Riesling far removed from the dinner table!

Anyone unconvinced by these wines was wowed by the sensationally concentrated, subtle and absolutely pure 2014 “F” Trockenbeerenauslese from Framingham in Marlborough/NZ. Proof that the very pinnacle of 21st century sweet Riesling is reached not only in Germany!

 

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Australian Riesling Diary: Day 3 – Riesling Downunder and the Empty Seat

Everyone is welcome, but some can’t attend. 

I have every reason to celebrate. Today the global Riesling fest called RIESLING DOWNUNDER begins in Melbourne/Victoria. This three day event is organized by the leading OZ Riesling producers Jim Barry and Pikes both in Clare Valley/South Australia and Frankland Estate in the Great Southern/Western Australia together with leading NZ Riesling producer Framingham of Marlborough. For three days hundreds of Riesling winemakers, merchants, somms and fans will taste, drink and talk about my favorite grape with great enthusiasm.

Then, when I came down to breakfast at Hotel Lindrum I felt a wave of sadness at the sight of an empty seat, the one pictured above. This is where Bernhard Breuer of the Georg Breuer estate in Rüdesheim/Rheingau sat the last time I talked to him in February 2004. Just three months later the news of his death shattered a quiet evening at home in Berlin. However, the fact is that Bernhard was one of the first people who was filled with the Riesling spirit that became a global phenomenon during the last years, and is the subject both of my book BEST WHITE WINE ON EARTH (English language edition published by Stewart, Tabori & Chang) / PLANET RIESLING (German language edition published by Tre Torri) and of this blog. He lives on not only in the memories of many participants in this event, but also in the spirit that will at least touch everyone who attends it.

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Australian Riesling Diary: Day 2 – Shine on Great Southern

From my last posting you might have got the idea that the Rieslings of Western Australia (WA) are some kind of weird and (possibly) wonderful freak show, heavy on irony and low on old-fashioned consistency, but this is not true of the majority of the wines as yesterday’s tasting of (mostly) dry Rieslings from the Great Southern region at Frankland Estate proved. In fact, the personalities of the many winemakers who attended (see the picture above) had far more eccentricity to offer than their wines did, and I mean that in the positive sense.

You see, if the wines (of any grape variety) from any region are mostly a freak show, then it’s very difficult to figure out what the special character of that place – yes, I’m talking about terroir, or the taste of the place – actually is. Also, fully mastering and perfecting a style of winemaking (any style of winemaking) requires a winemaker to commit to it for a good many years, and this process is greatly assisted if a good number of winemakers in that place simultaneously do that and exchange their experiences.

That isn’t some kind of new or radical idea, rather it’s like having many groups of researchers all working on the same scientific problem greatly increases the chances of solving it. Perhaps the Great Southern Riesling producers aren’t yet adequately aware of all that, but all this certainly applies to them. I hope that their awareness of all that was increased by yesterday’s tasting, in which case it had as second important purpose as well as informing me about what’s going on there now.

I should point out that this wasn’t the first such tasting of Great Southern Rieslings I’ve attended at Frankland Estate, the first having taken place 15 years ago. I couldn’t help drawing a comparison between the wines then and those yesterday, and the leap in winemaking competence was very considerable. Yesterday there were just a couple of slightly weak wines, and all the rest were at least good, sharing a clarity and expressiveness that enabled the special characteristics of the sub-areas and individual vineyards to shine through.

There couldn’t be one special Great Southern character, because the region is about 250 km “long” East-West and about 150 km “wide” from North-South. Distance from the Ocean varies considerably, and since this is a source of cooling sea breezes that’s a major climatic factor. I would say that the wines from the Mount Barker sub-region tend to have the most charming fruit and floral aromas, those from the Porongurup Hills are the most austere and aromatically discreet, with the Frankland River wines being the most racy and brilliant.

The Great Southern Rieslings don’t need a lot of alcohol to be “big” wines, and the most intense of them usually weigh in at 11.5% – 12.5% alcohol with few impressive wines dipping below or above those limits. The 2014 wines from Duke’s (particularly the complex and mineral Magpie Hill Reserve), Frankland Estate (austere and powerful) and Plantagenet (still very young, but with wonderful white fruit and flower aromas) stood out. However, Alkoomi (racy and a little wild) and Ferngrove (rich and harmonious) were not far behind. The biggest surprise of the tasting were the new sweet wines of which the “Juxtapose” from Plantagenet stood out with its orange peel and coriander seed character (!), the 17 grams per liter sweetness barely perceptible. Both the 2014 Botrytis Riesling from Singlefile and the 2009 Botrytis Riesling from Rising Star proved that high-end sweet Rieslings with low alcoholic content can work very well. And I promise you that you don’t need to be an expert to figure this stuff out for yourself, because the wines speak very directly due to the lack of fuzz and funk. The only thing that’s a little hard to understand is why the world hasn’t switched onto these wines already. The small size of most producers is surely only part of the explanation for this.

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Australian Riesling Diary: Day1 – The Wild West of Riesling Oz (with Irony)

Andrew Hoadley of La Violetta Wines in Denmark/Western Australia (WA), pictured above, is a winemaker with a sense of irony that’s married to a great feeling for harmony, a combination that I haven’t come across in this form since I first met Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon in Santa Cruz/California for the first time more than 20 years ago.  He’s holding a bottle of his 2014 “Das Sakrileg”, the sacrilege, a barrel-fermented Riesling in which the oak tannins are beautifully interwoven with the fruit tannins and the oak aromas do nothing to interrupt the flow of fruit aromas. That’s like squaring the circle and I can’t begin to explain to you how he did it, which is the best thing of all, the feeling that something miraculous happened that made this unexpected beauty not only possible, but seem inevitable.

I had this – and several other epiphanies – at Jeremy Purs’ Lalla Rookh in Perth, surely one of the best wine bars in Australia (and the beers are great too!) during yesterday afternoon’s “Riesling Market” there. I would have posted this story earlier, but I was torn this way and that by the fun I was having and the jetlag plus I was suffering from.  I add “plus” to the jetlag, because I always get a special form of disorientation when I arrive in Australia. Mentally I was chewing on that all day and evening, but now in the car en route to Frankland Estate I’ve finally got the time to hammer this out onto electronic paper.

The next Big Surprise at the Riesling Market were the wines from Paul Hogan of Xabregas in the Porongurup Hills of WA. It started with the regular Xabregas Riesling which is dry, but has a whisker of natural sweetness that teases some charm out of the normally austere and smoky character typical for the Rieslings from these ancient granitic hills. Then there were Paul’s mind-bending Rieslings under the “Mad Men of Riesling” label. One of these is an NV, filled in a Champagne bottle with a crown cork, is a full-on orange wine with a dried orange peel character and dense dry tannins. I found the 2014 which did two weeks of skin contact more interesting, because the tannins were less dominant and more complex.

These wines are only “mad” in the sense of being eccentric within the Australian context that was once more narrow and rigid than it is today. “Even 10 years ago I’d have been laughed at for doing this, but today it’s not a problem and there are some people out there looking for different wines,” he told me. Paul Hogan is one of WA’s great innovators and in few years some of the styles he has pioneered will have become established wine categories. The Gonzo Wine Show in Canberra is already offering Gold medals in several of them, and the mainstream shows usually lag just a couple of years behind the Gonzo.

Stylistic innovation was also apparent in some of the dry Rieslings at the “Great Southern 2014 Snapshot” tasting organized by the Great Southern Winegrowers Association immediately before Riesling Market. To my mind the standout wines were those with extended lees contact, which had filled out the mid-palate, rounded the finish and also added something to the nose, most notably the 2014 from West Cape Howe in Mount Barker (when did I last encounter an Oz Riesling with a yellow peach aroma and this kind of salty minerality?) and the 2014 from Snake & Herring’s “High & Dry” (when did I ever encounter an Oz Riesling that smelt of dried seaweed and this kind of positive tannic power?) Congratulations are due to Tony Davis for the latter. The craziest thing about this wine is that the biggest customer for it is the conservative Marks & Spencer chain in the UK!

 

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Singapore Riesling Diary: Day 2 – Under the Swan, the Lion and the Unicorn (Part 4) – In Memory of Philip Eyres

“Those who deny history are condemned to repeat it,” George Santanaya

This is the fourth and final installment of the talk on my Life and Riesling I gave at the Riesling Fellowship evening on Thursday, January 29th at Vintners Hall in the City of London. My apologies that a mere 15 minutes had to be broken up into four chunks, but I was anxious not to overwhelm readers with too much uncomfortable truth in one go. I think this is all much more difficult to take when read on the computer screen than when spoken. Some will say that by publicizing this I have done myself a disservice, but I owe a debt to wine merchant Philip Eyres (1926 – 2012) and continue pursuing what we discussed and corresponded about at the end of his life. It was he who helped me onto the Riesling trail that I’ve followed for more than 30 years.

I have to start by reading you a short section of Philip Eyres’ letter to me of 16th January 2012, written just a few months before his death: “On the subject of bombing during the last war, I always felt moral repulsion of the way that civilians in Japan and Germany were targeted and the fact that this was largely concealed from public knowledge… While “Bomber” Harris is generally assumed to be the architect of the attempt to win the war by killing civilians, Churchill must take the blame.”

This is an unpopular view even 50 years after the death of Winston Churchill. He is now the central figure in the mythical WWII in British minds and hearts, at once super-human and super-British, his weaknesses (for example, his well-documented white supremacism) are still rarely discussed, and then usually only superficially. The reason for this is the key part that he plays in the mythical WWII, the purpose of which is to create a patriotic sense of national identity. That’s another subject though, that this blog posting can only touch upon. Let me give you a few quotes from Winston Churchill from 1940-41 that show how early he had set his mind upon the so-called “Area Bombing” (i.e. carpet bombing of residential urban areas) campaign against German civilian targets that began in 1942 and reach its climax during the spring of 1945.

“We will make Germany a desert, yes a desert!”

On the subject of Adolf Hitler: “But there is one thing that will bring him back, and bring him down, and that is an absolutely devastating, exterminating attack by very heavy bombers from this country upon the Nazi homeland.”

“There are less than 70 million malignant Huns, some of who are curable and others are killable.”

It is perhaps important to point out that it was clear to all the leading members of the British government and the Royal Air Force that the policy of bombing German civilians targets during WWII was in contravention of international law, specifically the 1907 Hague Convention to which Britain was a signatory. It explicitly banned all attacks from the air on civilian population centers far from front lines. Of course, there is the argument that the Nazi atrocities, particularly the obscenity of the Holocaust, were so terrible that anything was acceptable in the struggle against them. I obviously don’t agree with that, for the simple reason, because it is based on the idea that a great wrong on one side justifies a smaller one on the other side, that an orgy of killing demands more killing a revenge for it.

Philip Eyres was very struck by the following quote from the physicist Freeman Dyson (born 1923). In it he describes his work in the office of Air Marshall Sir Arthur “Bomber” Harris during the last years of WWII: I sat in my office until the end, carefully calculating how to murder most economically another 100,000 people. Dyson then turns to the organizers of the Holocaust and observes, They sat in their offices, writing memoranda and calculating how to murder people efficiently, just like me. The main difference was that they were sent to jail or hanged as war criminals, while I went free.

Today, the assumption is often made that WWII was fought by the Allies against the organizers of the Holocaust with the aim of stopping them. While it is true that when the Allies found out about the extermination of the Jews the British and American governments made statements in parliament and congress condemning this, they didn’t follow through after that. Those statements were made in December 1942, but not only did no significant action follow those fine words, no serious attempt was made to determine what action could have been necessary to obstruct the Holocaust. Instead, the Allied leadership stood by while the Jews were exterminated by the German Nazis and like-minded citizens belonging to many of the nations Germany had occupied.

What was the attitude of the British government to the fate of the Jews? In early 1943 the Bulgarian government requested that Britain allow part of its Jewish population to be transported to Palestine. Britain refused. Shortly after this the British Foreign Secretary Anthony Eden wrote in a memorandum: There is a possibility that the Germans or their satellites may change over the policy of extermination to one of extrusion, and aim as they did before the war at embarrassing other countries by flooding them with alien immigrants. For extrusion  read deportation, and for alien immigrants read Jews. The Bulgarian Jews, though sadly not those in Bulgarian occupied Thrace and Macedonia, were lucky to be saved by their government’s repeated refusal to follow the German instructions to deport them to the death camps in what is now Poland.

My training as a cultural historian (Royal College of Art, 1984-86) taught me that the most fundamental question concerning history is what we choose to remember and what we choose to forget. Systematic forgetting is a form of active denial, and it is possible to be in denial for a very long time. Keeping the great majority of the population in ignorance is a very effective method of preventing them breaking such a cycle of denial. Philip Eyres and I came to the conclusion that the British establishment has been very good at denying chunks of the nation’s history, of which the bombing of Germany civilians during WWII is a prominent example. The problem is that, as the Spanish philosopher George Santanaya (1863 – 1952) famously wrote, those who deny history are condemned to repeat it.

I’m pretty sure that today RAF Tornados took off from air bases in Cyprus to bomb targets in Iraq. It is a little-known fact that the first RAF raids against targets in Iraq were in 1922 as part of a policy called “air policing”. The attack on Samawah in Iraq of November 30th/December 1st 1923 left the town in ruins with an unknown death toll. This happened 14 years before the destruction of Guernica by the German Lufwaffe during the Spanish Civil War. The architect of the “air policing” policy was Winston Churchill during his short period as Colonial Secretary 1921-22. A certain Arthur Harris was one of the RAF squadron leaders in Iraq.

It was Philip Eyres and German Riesling that lead me to these painful conclusions.

POSTSCRIPT

How did I succeed in upsetting some of my countrymen with the above words?

In ‚A Room of One’s Own’ Virginia Woolf (1928) talks about how male self-confidence and self-assurance are generated through “looking-glass” games involving women who accept looking smaller than the men they “reflect” in order that the latter feel bigger, more important. Of course, the smallness of women in such games is no less illusory than the size of the men which they serve to magnify.

Racism and nationalism do much the same. By thinking down and talking down the natives of a distant land or the inhabitants of a nearby country the members of the dominant group build themselves up in their own minds. There’s no reason why such games can’t be played retrospectively.

I think that the myth of Britain’s absolute moral victory over Germany in WWII that many of my countrymen frequently replay is just such a retrospective game. Like the sexist looking-glass game it too depends upon  selective cognition, in this case the quiet ignorance or the forceful denial of historical facts.

 

 

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Berlin Riesling Diary: Day 2 – Under the Swan, the Lion and the Unicorn (Part 3) – In Memory of Philip Eyres

This is the third installment of the talk I gave at the Riesling Fellowship evening on Thursday, January 29th at Vintners Hall in the City of London. I was invited to speak for 15 minutes about my life and Riesling while a wine I had selected was served. The wine was the 2012 Kupfergrube GG, one of the most racy and exciting dry Rieslings of that vintage in Germany. Please read the first two installments of this story before moving onto this one if you aren’t already familiar with them. My discussions and correspondence with wine merchant Philip Eyres (1926 – 2012) during the last years of his life left me with an intense feeling of obligation to tell this story as straight as I could. I have added a few lines where it strikes me that I skimmed over an important point due to the time limit that evening. My talk was very controversial, and these blog postings will be too, but all of the following is true and for me as a trained historian that is an argument which it is very hard to reject.

The photograph above shows the new exhibit about the RAF “Area Bombing” campaign of 1942-45 in the Imperial War Museum, which uses the example of the raids on Hamburg. The stick-like objects top right are 4 lb incendiary bombs (manufactured by ICI), the main weapon used to make that city burn like no city had ever burnt before; it was the first man-made firestorm. Seeing the ruins left by this raid while he was an officer of the Scotts Guards in the army of occupation in 1946 inspired Philip Eyres’ commitment to the Rieslings of Germany as much as his love of their smell and taste. 

When, in 2005, I realized why Philip Eyers had taken so much trouble to help me connect with the leading Riesling producers of the Mosel, Nahe and Pfalz I felt there was lost time to make up, so I got back in touch with him. I found that he was still working as an independent wine merchant, although he was 80 years old! We began tandem research into the air war against Germany, each adopting a different approach, but regularly exchanging our discoveries. Philip Eyres focused very directly upon the events of 1942-45 and on the perception of them in Britain today, while I explored both the backstory to those events, and what the consequences of not facing up to them after the end of WWII were for Britain and the rest of the world. Both of us experienced intellectual excitement when we were able to follow how one historical development lead to another, combined with horror at what had been considered acceptable by a country that perceived, and continues to perceive itself as fair and humane. There was no element of “Britain bashing” about this alternative history of our own country we pieced together, but we both certainly felt intense regret for every mass slaughter of civilians during WWII regardless of nationality, race or religion.

What did we discover? Firstly, that Pit Falkenstein was far from being the only German civilian refugee that had been deliberately strafed by British fighter pilots. For German refugees in the last months of the war that was a common experience. Tiefflieger was their word for those Allied fighter planes that were flying so low for only one reason. Certainly German pilots also strafed civilians during WWII, but I suggest that two wrongs don’t make a right.

When it came to Hamburg the facts were very clear. On the night of 27th/28th July 1943 a massive force of 787 British bombers, mostly Lancasters, dropped an enormous quantity of bombs, most of which were 4 Lb incendiaries, upon Hamburg. The weather was hot and had been so for a while, so everything was tinder-dry. This raid was codenamed Operation Gomorrah, which says almost everything. Let me quote the official Bomber Command Diary, which is part of the British National Archives: The concentrated bombing caused a large number of fires in the densely-built up working-class districts of Hammerbrook, Hamm and Borgfelde…The firestorm raged for 3 hours. The burnt out area was almost entirely residential. There were few survivors from the firestorm area…40,000 people died.

What these lines also don’t tell you is that the firestorm generated winds of up to 170mph that sucked people into the firestorm where they spontaneously combusted. Although some sources give other figures for the death toll (not all of which are lower), none gives a more precise figure than the one above, and I find that inexactitude also telling. You can count the bodies of asphyxiated victims, but how do you count the dead when all that is left of them are incinerated body parts, or small heaps of ash? For comparison, 40,000 is the number of British civilians who died during the entire Blitz, a period of 267 days. I mention this not to diminish in any way the suffering of Londoners during 1940-41.

Philip Eyres and I found that this scale of death and destruction was not collateral damage, much less a mistake or an accident. The bombs had hit their target and this was the intended result. Internally, RAF Bomber Command celebrated Operation Gamorrah as their greatest success to date. Soon it was no longer an exception, rather just one in a long series of massive raids that targeted the urban civilian population of Germany, their homes and much of the cultural fabric of that country. “Dresden” is the name most British people give to their misgivings about what was done in WWII. The Dresden raid became infamous because the American newspapers reported it, unlike many others before it (e.g. Hamburg) or after it (e.g. Pforzheim). There is no exact figure for the number of victims of the RAF “Area Bombing” campaign against Germany. 600,000 is the best estimate that Philip Eyres and I could find. Of course, this far less than the 6 million Jews killed in the Holocaust – mostly in an industrial manner that continues to disgust anyone with a sense of compassion  – or the roughly 5 million Slavs killed in a less organized, but no less brutal manner during the same years. However, it’s still an awful lot of dead civilians to sweep under the carpet, and this is what was done by the british Establishment for a long time. The past cannot be changed, but Philip and I believed that it is far better to be honest about it, than to live in denial.

In Riesling there is peace and that’s one reason I’m glad to have Riesling in my glass!

TO BE CONTINUED VERY SOON!

    

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